Wednesday, November 25, 2015

Cat Grooming Basics

When it comes to keeping clean and tangle free your cat will need a helping hand from you. We share our top grooming tips and advice with you

Cats are neat freaks. In fact, if you’re a cat owner, you know firsthand that your cat is a fastidious groomer. After all, it seems to spend most of its life either sleeping or grooming!
But as gung-ho as your cat is about keeping itself groomed and clean, the truth is that it could still use a bit of help from you.
Grooming is about more than just keeping your cat looking good. Grooming your cat on a regular basis will also help you to keep an eye on its health. And grooming your cat can even help to prevent feline health issues such as digestive problems caused by hairballs. Regular grooming can also help to improve the health of your cat’s skin and coat.

GETTING STARTED

If you’re already a cat owner, this probably goes without saying: Don’t just snatch up your cat one day and commence to grooming if you’ve never groomed the cat before. The outcome is likely to be unpleasant for the both of you.
Instead, slowly accustom the cat to the process of grooming.
Pick a time when the cat is relaxed and content – after eating, perhaps. Then start with short grooming sessions of maybe 5 to 10 minutes. Pet and praise the cat as you’re grooming, and maybe even offer a treat at the end of the session. And if the cat begins to show signs that it’s none too happy about what’s happening, stop for now. You can try it again later.
With time, the cat will become accustomed to the process, and will likely come to enjoy it.

BRUSHING BASICS

Regular brushing offers benefits such as dead hair and dirt, and removing or preventing mats and tangles. But do it right, or you’ll end up with a cantankerous kitty on your hands!
Always brush in the direction that the hair naturally lays, never against the ‘grain.’ And be extra gentle around the belly and chest.
For shorthaired cats:
  • Start with a fine-toothed metal comb. Run it through the cat’s fur from head to tail tip. Watch for small pepper-like specks that could indicate the presence of cat fleas.
  • Use a bristle or soft rubber brush next to remove loose hair.
For longhaired cats:
  • Start with a wide-toothed comb to remove debris that may be caught in the cat’s coat. Carefully untangle any knots.
  • Next use a wire brush or a bristle brush to remove loose hair.
  • Consider using a toothbrush to brush around the cat’s face.
And if you encounter matting in the cat’s fur, don’t try to cut it out; one or both of you may end up getting hurt.
Brushing twice a week should be plenty for most shorthaired cats, while a longhaired cat may need brushing every day.

BATH TIME (SAY IT ISN’T SO)

Does the idea of giving your cat a bath send shivers of fear down your spine? Understandable! It’s well known that most cats aren’t particularly fond of water. You may even have been witness to a vivid demonstration of this fact in times past.
Luckily, cats don’t often need the help of a full-blown bath.
But on occasion, your cat’s coat might become sticky or dirty to a degree that the old tongue-bath just isn’t going to cut it. So you’ll have to get involved. Fortunately, though, bath time doesn’t have to be a time of terror for the both of you – if you do it right:
  • Start by making the water temperature pleasant. It should be warm – not hot, and not cold.
  • Use a shampoo that’s made specifically for use with cats, and labeled accordingly.
  • Use a sink or tub in which you’ve placed a rubber bath mat, filled to a depth of just 3 or 4 inches.
  • Gently wet the cat down using a spray hose, but DO NOT spray or pour water directly on the cat’s head – you don’t want to spray or pour into the cat’s eyes, ears or nose. If you don’t have a spray hose, use an unbreakable pitcher.
  • Start at the cat’s head, and gently work in the shampoo from head to tail.
  • Rinse gently but thoroughly, making sure that all the shampoo is rinsed out. Again, be sure to avoid spraying or pouring water directly on the cat’s head.
  • Gently pat dry with a large towel.
And one last tip: If your cat’s nails need clipping, do it BEFORE bath time!

PEDICURE, PLEASE

Getting your cat to accept having it’s claws trimmed by you really shouldn’t be too difficult, IF you approach it properly.
Start out by spending some time just training your cat to be comfortable and accepting of having her feet handled. Begin to massage its feet on a daily basis. Do that by running your hand along its leg, and then very gently pressing with your thumb on the pad of each toe, causing the claw to extend. After a week or two the cat will likely become comfortable with its daily foot massage.
Once the cat is comfortable with the massaging, it’s OK to clip. Use a quality, sharp clipper or nail scissors specifically designed for use on cats. Cut parallel to the flat of the claw, and clip off only the white tip. Be VERY careful to avoid the quick, which usually appears as a pinkish area that you can see through the translucent claw.

IT’S NICE TO BE NEEDED

Compared to certain other pets, cats are relatively low maintenance – a nice perk for cat lovers. But like all of us, your cat could use a helping hand now and then. Independent creature though your cat may be, it still needs your help in remaining happy and healthy.
And that’s kind of a perk, too, wouldn’t you agree?

Saturday, May 21, 2011

How to Clean a Fish Tank

This article explains how to safely clean any fresh water fish tank. The instructions will apply for any size of fish tank that you have.

Make sure you have everything you need!
Run through your checklist, and make sure everything you need is available.


Decide how much water you are going to change

If you are on a regular schedule and if your fish are healthy, 10-20% should be enough.


Start the siphon and direct the water into a a large pail, particularly a five gallon.

You may need a larger bucket if you have a large aquarium.




Push your gravel vacuum through the gravel.

Fish waste, excess food, and other debris will be sucked into the the vacuum.


If you have a sand substrate, do not use the vacuum like a shovel.

Use just the hose part of the siphon, not the plastic tube, holding it under an inch from the surface to suck up waste without disturbing your sand.


If your decorations are covered in algae, you may want to feed your fish less or change the water more frequently.

Excess algae growth is caused by excess nutrients in the water. You can wipe the decorations off in the tank water you siphoned out, and use an algae scrubber to remove algae from the walls of the tank. You can also put in algae remover with your conditioner.


Change the filter cartridge about once a month.

Contrary to common belief, the carbon inside of the filter cartridge can become detrimental to your fishes health if left unchanged. Not much beneficial bacteria lives inside the filter, most is in the gravel, so changing it will not affect the biological filtration in any way. Cartridges can be rinsed off weekly when water changes are performed if it appears to be dirty. However rinsing the filter cartridge does not substitute changing it, so it still has to be changed montly.


Replace the water you took out with fresh, treated water at the temperature of the aquarium.


Any cloudiness that remains will normally dissipate in a few hours, leaving the water sparkling clear.















Thursday, April 14, 2011

Bird



General Information


Modern pet birds were first domesticated thousands of years ago, with some species being domesticated as pets within the last several hundred years. Canaries were first bred into captivity in the early 1600s, while the parakeet, with its varied and diverse classes, is believed to have been domesticated for thousands of years.

Birds have had an enormous impact in human life serving as a primary source of food and also in performing important tasks. As a source of food, recent estimates indicate that every year more than 9.8 billion birds are raised, slaughtered and consumed for human consumption in the United States alone. In addition to food, birds have performs such tasks as carrying communications (Homing pigeons), hunting (falcons), scientific research (chickens and pigeons), and protecting miners from poisonous gasses (canaries).

Pet birds provide lively, constant companions that can fill a home with relaxing chirps and singing. Additionally they can bring vivid color and life into quiet corners of the home. Some species of birds can live well into their 60s and 70s creating a life long bond with their owner.

BIRD Scientific Information

Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Cordata Subphylum: Verebrata Class: Aves

BIRD Character Information


Birds are wonderful pets that can liven up any home or apartment with their high energy and beautiful songs and can add a wide array of color to any environment they live in. Birds are intelligent creatures that are easily trained and are relatively easy to care for. They can be extremely social and can live long, healthy lives providing years and years of companionships.

For the budget conscious, birds are not expensive to feed and can live in a small inexpensive cage. When considering becoming a bird owner, it is important to think about your current living condition, whether as a renter you can have such a pet, and about how long you are willing to have the bird as part of your home. Some types of birds can live well into their 70s if well cared for. But whatever your motivation, you can expect to have the happy sounds and colors of your bird brighten your home every day.

Monday, August 2, 2010

HORSES



General Information



Some experts speculate that horses were first domesticated almost 10,000 years ago. Throughout time, these sturdy and resilient animals have been used for transportation, to transport cargo, and sometimes for food. Around 2000 BC, historical records indicate that horses were used by many different cultures and societies.

Once domesticated, horses began to be bred for their specific abilities and characteristics. As humans began to find various uses for these animals they began to breed certain horses for pulling plows and wagons, for riding (with and without saddles), and as mentioned before, some cultures used horses as a source of meat and milk. Modern day horses are used mainly for recreation, although in some areas of the world horses are still used for work.


HORSE Scientific Information



Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Mammalia
Order: Perissodactyla
Family: Equidae
Genus: Equus
Species: E. caballus


HORSE Character Information



Depending on the breed, horses’ behaviors and characteristics vary from being subdued to very spirited animals. Horses are very intelligent can be taught to obey and perform specific tasks when trained to do so. If you have any experience in riding or working with horses, you can attest to the fact that at times they can also be very stubborn animals.

Horses require special attention and care and should be taught to trust their caretaker. Horses that are neglected or not well cared for can become wild and unruly creating an unsafe environment for anyone in this large animal’s vicinity.

MICE & RATS



General Information



Whether as pets or unwanted pests, mice and rats have lived with humans for thousands of years. These small furry creatures have survived throughout the ages because of their ability to adapt to almost any condition and their incredible ability to reproduce – one pair of mice and their descendents can produce over a million offspring in just two short years!

Mice and rats have an extended history of use in laboratory experiments and are considered a great test for chemicals and substances that may eventually be used on humans.

These rodents are adept hunters, spending most of their lives in the wild searching for and capturing food. Mice and rats are mostly nocturnal, gathering food during the night and showing signs of activity at varying times of the day.


MICE & RAT Scientific Information



Mouse

Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Mammalia
Order: Rodentia
Superfamily: Muroidea
Family: Muridae
Subfamily: Murinae
Genus: Mus

Rat

Kingdom: Animalia
Phylum: Chordata
Class: Mammalia
Order: Rodentia
Superfamily: Muroidea
Family: Muridae
Subfamily: Murinae
Genus: Rattus



MICE & RAT Character Information



Mice are social creatures that are well adapted to handling by both adults and children. As social as mice can be, they can be very timid and if scared or handled roughly can become aggressive and territorial. When handling a pet mouse or rat, children should always be supervised by an adult.

Mice are small rodents, measuring only 3 ½ inches from head to bottom (tails can vary in length), weigh only an ounce and typically live to be one to four years old. While white is the most popular pet color, mice and rats come in a variety of coat colors and hair lengths.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Rabbits as Pets

Rabbits as Pets - Is a Rabbit the Right Pet for You?

Question: Rabbits as Pets - Is a Rabbit the Right Pet for You?

Rabbits can make absolutely delightful pets, but as always, having the right expectations will help you develop a strong bond with your pet. Find out all you can about the care of pet rabbits as well as the pros and cons of pet rabbits before choosing a pet rabbit.

Answer:

Rabbits are very social as well as active and playful, forming close bond with their owners. As long as you know what to expect from a pet rabbit, they have the potential to be wonderful pets.

Life expectancy: varies with breed, anywhere from 5 to 15 years.

Why Rabbits Can Make Good Pets

· Rabbits are social and with gentle handling are generally quite tame.

· They are playful and entertaining to watch.

· Rabbits often form very close bonds with their owners.

· They can be litter trained. They also respond well to gentle training (try a clicker) and can be trained to do special behaviors and tricks.

What You Need to Know Before Deciding on a Rabbit

· Being social, rabbits need a great deal of interaction with their owners and/or other rabbits to be happy. Daily playtime and exercise outside of their case are a necessity.

· Rabbits are not low maintenance - it takes a good deal of work to properly care for a rabbit.

· Rabbit pellets alone are not a sufficient diet -- they need lots of roughage in the form of good quality hay and a variety of fresh vegetables.

· They do need to chew, so lots of safe chew toys should be provided, and any spaces where the rabbit is allowed to run must be carefully rabbit-proofed.

· They need a relatively large cage. They are also better off indoors, where they can be more social with their family and also are also safe from predators (even in the city) and extreme weather.

· While they are generally quiet pets, rabbits are not a good match for active young children who may not be careful enough when picking them up or playing around them.

· Rabbits like to be near their people, but they often would rather not be held.

· They will likely require some veterinary care, which can be expensive. They should be spayed or neutered (by a vet experienced with surgery on rabbits) and they may require vaccinations depending on where you live (see Rabbit Vaccinations from RabbitRehome.org.uk for more on vaccines).

· Rabbit urine can have a strong odor so expect to change their litter box frequently (spaying and neutering can help reduce the odor. In addition their urine is high in calcium so can leave a chalky residue when it dries that can be hard to clean up (vinegar is pretty effective for this).

Consider Adopting a Shelter Rabbit

· Please consider adopting an rabbit from a shelter or rescue if you have one nearby. There are many perfectly good pet rabbits who need a second chance at finding a forever home. Don't worry about getting an older rabbit--you can get a good sense of their personality and they will bond with new owners just fine.

A special note about Easter and Rabbits:
The association between rabbits and Easter means rabbits are often impulsively acquired as pets at Easter time. Unfortunately, many of these bunnies end up neglected or given up for adoption since those cute little bunnies grow up into rabbits that need as much attention and care as a dog. Rabbits can be destructive if deprived of attention and appropriate toys, and need to be spayed or neutered to cut down on behavioral problems and health risks. In addition, rabbits are not ideal pets for children, partly because rabbits usually do not like to be held or cuddled. Always research a potential pet thoroughly to make sure it will be a suitable companion before getting one, and avoid the impulse to get a bunny for Easter.




Saturday, July 31, 2010

Dog Toilet Training


Dog toilet training is the process of teaching your dog to eliminate where you want him to. It's all about getting to the point of allowing him freedom in your home without worrying about him making a mess.

Dog Toilet Training With a Crate

The most effective method of dog toilet training involves the use of a dog crate. A dog crate, available at most pet supply retailers, provides your dog with a place of his own. Your dog is genetically predisposed to keep the place where he sleeps clean. During a short period (usually about two weeks) of dog toilet training, your dog is in one of three places: using the bathroom in the place you designate, inside the house playing with you or your family after you're sure he's "empty," or in the crate. This virtually eliminates chances of mistakes, and your dog will quickly understand what's expected of him in terms of toilet habits.

It is possible, though not often recommended, to attempt dog toilet training without a crate. Even if you just borrow a crate for dog toilet training and return it later, it's worth the effort to use the crate. However, if you're completely opposed to using a crate for dog toilet training, or there's some reason that a crate is unavailable to you, then there are some tips for dog toilet training without a crate.

Dog Toilet Training Without a Crate

Accept the fact that dog toilet training without a crate will be more difficult, with more accidents to clean up. But resolve to keep your dog toilet training positive. Negative techniques often just end up confusing your dog.

The key to dog toilet training without a crate is to stay in touch with your dog throughout the day. You'll need to recognize signs that he needs to use the bathroom, and then immediately take him to the spot where you want him to go, give the command word and praise his successes. If you don't want to keep your dog or puppy on a leash with you during the entire period of dog toilet training, then confine them to an area you can watch using something like a baby gate. Your dog will be able to see you and you can see what he's up to. A closed door will make it impossible for you to catch him getting ready to go.

Dog Toilet Training Using Papers

Using papers for dog toilet training is really not practical for large dogs. The amount of waste they produce will make paper-training an entirely distasteful option for dog toilet training. You should realize if you intend for your dog to use the bathroom outside, there's no need for involving papers in dog toilet training at all. Take your dog outside to eliminate from day one.

If you have a small dog and going outside is difficult (perhaps you live in a city apartment), then dog toilet training with papers might work for you. There's really no secret to paper-training. It works just like all other forms of dog toilet training. Just take your dog to the papers instead of outside. Give him your chosen command word and praise him when he eliminates onto the papers.

Once you've successfully completed dog toilet training using papers, if you decide you want your dog to go outside, then you'll need to start over. It's not impossible, in fact it may be fairly painless, but just remember your dog won't figure out on his own what you want.