Showing posts with label Blood in Dog Stool. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Blood in Dog Stool. Show all posts

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Dog Toilet Training


Dog toilet training is the process of teaching your dog to eliminate where you want him to. It's all about getting to the point of allowing him freedom in your home without worrying about him making a mess.

Dog Toilet Training With a Crate

The most effective method of dog toilet training involves the use of a dog crate. A dog crate, available at most pet supply retailers, provides your dog with a place of his own. Your dog is genetically predisposed to keep the place where he sleeps clean. During a short period (usually about two weeks) of dog toilet training, your dog is in one of three places: using the bathroom in the place you designate, inside the house playing with you or your family after you're sure he's "empty," or in the crate. This virtually eliminates chances of mistakes, and your dog will quickly understand what's expected of him in terms of toilet habits.

It is possible, though not often recommended, to attempt dog toilet training without a crate. Even if you just borrow a crate for dog toilet training and return it later, it's worth the effort to use the crate. However, if you're completely opposed to using a crate for dog toilet training, or there's some reason that a crate is unavailable to you, then there are some tips for dog toilet training without a crate.

Dog Toilet Training Without a Crate

Accept the fact that dog toilet training without a crate will be more difficult, with more accidents to clean up. But resolve to keep your dog toilet training positive. Negative techniques often just end up confusing your dog.

The key to dog toilet training without a crate is to stay in touch with your dog throughout the day. You'll need to recognize signs that he needs to use the bathroom, and then immediately take him to the spot where you want him to go, give the command word and praise his successes. If you don't want to keep your dog or puppy on a leash with you during the entire period of dog toilet training, then confine them to an area you can watch using something like a baby gate. Your dog will be able to see you and you can see what he's up to. A closed door will make it impossible for you to catch him getting ready to go.

Dog Toilet Training Using Papers

Using papers for dog toilet training is really not practical for large dogs. The amount of waste they produce will make paper-training an entirely distasteful option for dog toilet training. You should realize if you intend for your dog to use the bathroom outside, there's no need for involving papers in dog toilet training at all. Take your dog outside to eliminate from day one.

If you have a small dog and going outside is difficult (perhaps you live in a city apartment), then dog toilet training with papers might work for you. There's really no secret to paper-training. It works just like all other forms of dog toilet training. Just take your dog to the papers instead of outside. Give him your chosen command word and praise him when he eliminates onto the papers.

Once you've successfully completed dog toilet training using papers, if you decide you want your dog to go outside, then you'll need to start over. It's not impossible, in fact it may be fairly painless, but just remember your dog won't figure out on his own what you want.

Friday, July 2, 2010

Tips on Keeping Dog’s Teeth Clean

Are you worried about your dog’s dental health? Here are a few tips to keep their teeth and gums looking great.

Try to come up with a routine for brushing its’ teeth. There are toothbrushes and brushes that go on your finger like a finger puppet. You can also purchase a baby toothbrush to use on puppies. Be careful using human toothpaste as it may ingest more than recommended. Dog toothpaste is also available and can make the tooth brushing process easier with their chicken and beef flavors.


If you can’t stick to a great brushing schedule, there are dental treats available like DentaStix, Busy Bone and Dental Fresh, which dogs love. These treats help remove plaque and stimulate the gums. There are various brands, sizes and favors, so it’s easy to find a brand that works well.


If it appears it needs a dental cleaning, you can take it to the vet. I recommend trying to keep up with a schedule that enables you not to do so. Dental cleanings can be very expensive and a lot of times they put the pet under to perform the cleaning, which is sometimes dangerous for puppies.


A friend of mine has come up with a routine that she stands behind. In order to make sure she keeps its teeth healthy, every time she gives him a bath she makes sure to brush his teeth. This ensures that his teeth are cleaned at least once every two weeks. She follows up his day of cleaning with a DentaStix. Between bath days, she brushes his teeth whenever it pops into her head or gives him a DentaStix. If she does see any tartar build up, she removes it with a tooth cleaning utensil.


If you are worried about the dental health, check to see if there is any tartar along their gum line or any loose teeth. Excessively bad breath is also an indication of poor dental health. Keeping your dog’s teeth healthy can be easy and inexpensive if you stay proactive.

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Types of Dog Collars

Dog collars are not so simple as they seem. There are many different types of dog collars available in the market to suit different functions and needs. Different kinds of dogs need to be harnessed using different dog collars. The independent and intelligent dog breeds such as Boxers need firm and fair training to be obedient and learn good manners. These dogs can be friendly and quite useful once trained properly but do not like to be ordered around. To choose a right collar, you must read this article that details the uses of different types of collars:
Buckle Collars

Buckle collars have are meant to be buckled to fasten them and are mostly made up of nylon, cotton, or leather. They can both be flat or rolled and are quite adjustable. Buckle collars are adjustable and do not strangle dogs. Rolled leather collars are better than flat ones as they avoid chafing or hair breakage.

Quick-Release Collars

Flat nylon buckle collars have plastic fastenings that help to put on and take off the collar quickly. These are adjustable too and do not tighten around dog's necks.

Break-away Collars

It is a quick-release collar and is meant to help the dog pull itself free, if the need be. Its inventor was inspired to design it after his dog get choked to death because the collar he was wearing got caught on something. However, if attached to a leash, the collar will not open, giving you the freedom to control the dog, when you are with him.

Slip Collars

Slip collars are also known as choke chains or chokers. They can be made of braided nylon, cotton, metal or leather and have 'O' rings at either end. The collar is looped through one of the rings. The collar can be tightened and loosened with pressure from the lead. Attaching the lead to the floating ring or the dead ring will prevent the collar from tightening.

Choke Chains

The metal training slip collars known as choke chains are still in use as the primary training tools for the dog. They are used to give dogs a jerk, if they do not obey a command but are not advisable as they may cause neck, back and tracheal injuries to dogs and may also cause them trauma. Only qualified, experienced instructors may use them with care. Width and weight of the links decide the type of chokers to be chosen for the dog. Heavy chains need collars with rough sliding. They are the training collars and must never be used on puppies. Tags should not be attached to chokers. Long-haired dogs need wide-link chokers.
Prong or Pinch Collars

These training collars are much safer than the chokers and do not cause neck, back or tracheal injuries. However, since they are may get worn and stretched and thus spring open, they can only be used with a back-up collar hooked to the leash. Not intended for puppies, they should only be used carefully.

Head Halters


Head halters are much like halters used for horses and are meant for dogs that pull. They sit right below the dog's eyes and thus are uncomfortable to most dogs. They should not be confused for muzzles as they allow the dog to drink, eat, bark or bite. It is to be used when the dog is walking at your side and not trying to escape from you.
Harnesses

Harnesses are used for sled and carting dogs to help them pull and is the most effective means to distribute weight evenly. It enables the dog to pull many times its own body weight

Electronic Collars

'Remote' collars or 'shock' collars deliver an electrical stimulus to the dog in training as a 'correction method'. The intensity of the stimulus starts from low level to high, depending on the disobedience of the dog. These training-only collars should only be used by professionals or may have destructive effect on dog's self confidence, desire to work and general good will.

Collars should fit well and especially the non-slip collars should be loose enough to leave two-finger width space between the collar and the neck of the dog. Improperly fitted collars and their incorrect usage may even prove fatal to dogs.

Traveling With Dog

Most dogs like to travel and go for adventure. Natural hunting instincts make them want to see new places and meet new people but it may pose a problem to take the dog with you for many reasons. Many people are afraid of dogs and dog messes are especially troublesome while traveling. Many hotels and public transport services do not cater to pets such as dogs and cats. A full-time pet sitter may be needed to see after your dog while you are on a trip or may get it enrolled in a professionally managed kennel. Make sure that the kennel, where your dog has to live, is clean and comfortable. The dogs there should look happy and cared for. Some kennels also allow you to give dog's own bed, toys and food for his use during your absence. Good kennels accept dogs only if they are vaccinated and immunized properly.

However, if you are insistent on taking the dog with you, here are the few tips for you:


  • Get a health certificate from your vet for your dog.
  • Sturdy dog crates or carriers are must. Some airlines sell dog carriers that are very sturdy but fairly expensive too.
  • While some airlines will allow your dog to remain with you in the passenger compartment others prefer to keep them in the luggage compartment.
  • Dogs need air-conditioned and well-ventilated cars to keep him cool.
  • Don't let your stick his head out the window while the car is moving.
  • Do not leave the dog in a parked car unattended or in the sun to protect him from fatal heat stroke or from being stole or kidnapped.
  • Symptoms like rapid panting, fast pulse, excessive slobbering, red eyes and gums, feverish temperature or vomiting, means that your dog needs attention immediately. Place cool towels on your dog and take him to the nearest veterinarian immediately.
  • Every country has its own specific rules regarding traveling with pets. Follow them carefully to avoid any hassles later.
  • A valid rabies vaccination certificate and an official health certificate in the other country's native language, notarized at the local consulate, is always helpful.
  • To prepare for a road trip, get a pet identification tag for your dog first, complete with dog's name, owner's name and contact number.
  • A first aid kit for your dog comes in handy to remove any ticks that he may contact on the way.
  • Getting a dog seat belt harness for riding the car is a good idea.
  • Take your do's beloved food and treats with you, enough to last for the duration of the trip.
  • Pack water, dog dishes, leash, favorite dog toys, brush, towels, plastic bags for cleaning up after your dog, dog wear and dog carriers or houses and all the things that will keep your dog happy during the journey.
  • Make sure to stop at least every 2-3 hours to allow your dog to relieve himself and offer him water

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Dog Clothes

Furry dogs are as stylish as they come but humans have infectious fantasy world of their own and even dogs take on some of the spirit of their owners and like to wear clean beautiful outfits sometimes. The dog clothes must be easily washable and should not shrink easily. Fabric is very important and if you can sew a little, it can save you much money and come up with better designs and patterns to suit your tastes and your dog's comfort. Avoid using choking hazards to decorate dog clothes such as attractive buttons, sequins or glittering objects that may motivate the togs to chew upon the clothes. Velcro snaps are much better to be used in dog clothes, as they are self-sticking and are quite adjustable to allow for the perfect fit. The clothes should also have a slit or a buckle at the back to allow the leash to be attached to it. The distance between the cuts for the paws should be comfortable for your dog.

Clothes for active dogs and outdoor wear for dogs should be safe and warm. They should be sturdy enough to keep of cuts, scratches and bad weather from affecting your dog while on adventure. Dog garments can be of many types such as dog coats, dog vests and dog booties. They should be able to keep your pooch dry, warm and save it from rain, wind and storm. Latest style of dog clothes may also include reflective materials that make it easy to search the dog and stitching that is not visible on top. Clothes for active dogs are designed especially to keep them from getting scratches and cuts in the woods by the sharp bushes and splintering brambles. Even the long furry dogs may need coats to protect them from chilly winds in cold weather.

The clothes for dogs should have a good fitting. Their coats, vests, boots and hats should not be very tight but should remain securely in place while the dog is on hunt or a hike with you. Rough bushes and elements of weather can be as much a pain in neck as they are to you, so the clothes for outdoors must be sturdy enough to protect them. The type of coat also determines the types of clothes chosen for a dog. Dogs with short hair may suffer more from rain and cold while thick fur may absorb lots of water. Fleece dog clothing is suitable for cold windy days but are not good enough for rain and thorns. For maximum protection, you may choose a dog coat with a warm fleece lining and a durable nylon shell.

A raincoat for a dog can protect him from the rain and cold too. Choose a raincoat with a hat with flaps to cover the ears. A coat that extends to the underside of the dog must have a hole at the rear end to allow the dog to urinate. Thorns and bugs away from the long fur of your canine pal is quite a bonus too. The clothes should allow a full range of motion and should not restrict its motions, especially those of legs. Garments must have clean lines and invisible close stitching that won't get caught easily or may not prompt dog to chew upon. Clothes for particular breeds of dogs are also available at bigger pet stores. They are specially designed to suit their needs and comforts.

Methods of house training

Starting Inside: There are several ways to housebreak a puppy. With the first, you can put down papers or pretreated pads, encouraging them to use these areas for going to the bathroom. The pads are scented with a chemical that attracts the puppy to use them. Whenever you see them starting into their "pre-potty pattern," such as walking around and sniffing the floor, you gently pick them up without talking and carry them over to the papers/pad and then praise them when they go to the bathroom (Rule 2).

When all goes well and they are using the papers consistently, the papers are either moved closer to the door and/or another set is placed outside. The transition is made from concentrating the toilet habits to one spot inside the home to one spot outside the home. Finally, the papers inside are eliminated. The only problem with this method is that for a period of time it encourages the animal to eliminate inside the home. In our experience, house training may take longer when this method is used.

Crate Training: The second popular method of house training involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances.

During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children, or even away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time.

Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on.

Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does.

Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.

Constant Supervision: The last method involves no papers, pads, or crates. Rather, you chose to spend all the time necessary with the puppy. This works very well for people who live and work in their homes, retired persons, or in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever they see the puppy doing his "pre-potty pattern" they hustle him outside. It is important that the dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less room for error, as there is nothing like a cage to restrict the animal's urges, nor is there a place for him to relieve himself such as on the papers or pad. When he is taken outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want the dog to understand that the purpose for going outside was to go to the bathroom. Do not start playing, make it a trip for a reason. Verbal communications help this method and we will discuss them soon. For those with the time, this is a good method. We still recommend having a crate available as a backup when the owners have to be away from the animal.

Verbal cues
Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what is desired. It is an excellent idea to always use a word when it is time to head to the bathroom. We like "Outside?" Remember that whenever you use a verbal command or signal, it is important that everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Think of the word "Outside" in this situation not only as a question you are asking the pup, but also as an indication that you want to go there. Some dogs may get into the habit of going to the door when they want to go outside. This is great when it happens but it is not as common as some believe. We have found that it is better to use verbal commands to initiate this sort of activity rather than waiting for the puppy to learn this behavior on his own. It seems like your consistent use of a word or phrase like "Outside" will cause the puppy to come to you rather than the door when he needs to go outside. The pup quickly sees you as part of the overall activity of getting to where he needs to go. We believe this is much better.

Once outside, we try to encourage the pup to get on with the act in question. We use the phrase "Do your numbers." This is probably a holdover from our own parenthood and hearing children use the "Number 1" or "Number 2" phrases. Others use 'Do It,' 'Potty,' or 'Hurry Up.' As soon as they eliminate, it is very important to praise them with a "Good Dog" and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started outside with a specific word "Outside" be for a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to play with a ball or go for a walk we will not use this word even if we know they will eliminate while we are outside.

How to Stop Barking

It's no wonder people have barking problems with their dogs. Most dogs have no clue as to whether barking is something good or something bad. Sometimes when the dog barks, he is ignored (owner in a jolly mood). Other times, the dog is encouraged (owner sees suspicious stranger outside the house). And yet other times, the dog is yelled at (owner has a headache). Humans are consistently inconsistent. In order to help your dog know your rules, teach him what they are. Here is a good rule to start with: Barking is OK until the dog is told to "Stop Barking." Think of "Stop Barking" as an obedience command rather that simply an unpredictable reprimand. Each time your dog barks, after two or three woofs, praise her for sounding the alarm. Then tell her, "Stop Barking." Simultaneously, waggle an especially tasty food treat in front of her nose.

Most dogs instantly stop barking because they can't sniff and lick the treat while barking. During this quiet time praise her continuously - - "Good girl, stop barking, what a good quiet dog you are, good dog . . ." After 3 seconds of no barking, let her have the treat. The next time she barks, require her to stop barking for 5 seconds before she gets the treat. Each time she is told to stop barking and succeeds, she will be rewarded.

If she barks even one little wooflet after you've given the command, scold her immediately. Timing is everything. As training proceeds, the required period of silence is increased gradually; at first "Stop Barking" means: No barking for the next 3 seconds, then 5 seconds, then 10 seconds and so on. Within a single training session, you can teach your dog to stop barking for up to 1 or 2 minutes. This is major progress, because whatever set off her barking in the first place is history, and she is likely to be quiet until the next disturbance.

Blood in Dog Stool

Passing trace amounts of blood in the stool is considered quite normal for dogs. But when you see a heavy discharge of red or fresh clots of blood in your dog's stool, it can be a serious cause of concern. Clinically, the condition is known as 'Hematochezia'. In such cases, the animal discharges bloody stool and sometimes, has to make a great effort while defecating. Generally, bloody stool in dogs is an important sign of gastrointestinal problems. But blood in the feces may sometimes be indicative of serious disorders in the body. Below we have detailed the causes and helpful remedies for curing bloody stool in dogs.

Causes
Apart from gastrointestinal disorders, there can be numerous reasons for blood in dog's feces. These are some of the major causes of the disorder


  • Bacterial infections like 'Clostridium' and 'Salmonella'
  • Certain allergies from food additives, emulsifiers or fats
  • Contraction of the anus or colon, due to cancer, trauma or inflammation
  • Different intestinal parasites like whipworm and ringworm
  • Disruption of colon or rectum, due to fractures in the pelvis area
  • Inflammation in the anal sacs or 'Anal Sacculitis'
  • Inflammation of the colon (Colitis) or the rectum
  • Overeating or ingestion of sharp things (bone, plastic, needles)
  • Presence of benign and malignant tumors in the abdomen
  • Presence of protozoal agents like 'Coccidiosis'
  • Sudden change in the dietary plan or consuming food meant for people
  • Viral infections such as 'Parovirus' and 'Coronavirus'
  • Other bleeding disorders in the body
Home Remedies
Treatments may vary according to the causes of Hematochezia. Listed below are essential home remedies that you can adopt to stabilize and cure the problem.


  • Add 2-3 cloves of garlic to the dog's dinner every day.
  • Avoid giving commercial or packaged food to the animal.
  • De-worming is necessary in the case of parasitic problems.
  • Give him 4-5 small servings, instead of two large servings.
  • Include white rice, cottage cheese and boiled potatoes in the diet.
  • Provide a bland and hypoallergenic diet with high fiber content.
Specific Cures
Here are some of the treatments that can be undertaken with proper medical supervision or guidance.


  • Certain drugs can be administered to control the rate of movement of food through the intestines
  • Cleansing enemas or local surgeries are required to extract foreign bodies like bones and needles.
  • Corticosteroids can be taken to cure immune-related Colitis.
  • In severe cases of vomiting and diarrhea, intravenous fluid and electrolyte treatment becomes necessary.
  • Masses of colon or rectum can be removed with the help of surgery.
  • Suitable antibiotics with anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties can be provided orally or injected into the body.
  • Sometimes shock treatments are undertaken when there is severe breakdown of the animal or it gets very weak.

Though these home remedies may help you to control the disease, yet proper veterinarian counseling sometimes becomes a necessity. Do not wait if the problem continues after 24 hr. Take a fresh sample of stool to the veterinarian for accurate diagnosis and adequate treatment.