Types of Dog Collars

Dog collars are not so simple as they seem. There are many different types of dog collars available in the market to suit different functions and needs. Different kinds of dogs need to be harnessed using different dog collars. The independent and intelligent dog breeds such as Boxers need firm and fair training to be obedient and learn good manners. These dogs can be friendly and quite useful once trained properly but do not like to be ordered around. To choose a right collar, you must read this article that details the uses of different types of collars:

Buckle Collars

Buckle collars have are meant to be buckled to fasten them and are mostly made up of nylon, cotton, or leather. They can both be flat or rolled and are quite adjustable. Buckle collars are adjustable and do not strangle dogs. Rolled leather collars are better than flat ones as they avoid chafing or hair breakage.

Quick-Release Collars

Flat nylon buckle collars have plastic fastenings that help to put on and take off the collar quickly. These are adjustable too and do not tighten around dog's necks.

Break-away Collars

It is a quick-release collar and is meant to help the dog pull itself free, if the need be. Its inventor was inspired to design it after his dog get choked to death because the collar he was wearing got caught on something. However, if attached to a leash, the collar will not open, giving you the freedom to control the dog, when you are with him.

Slip Collars

Slip collars are also known as choke chains or chokers. They can be made of braided nylon, cotton, metal or leather and have 'O' rings at either end. The collar is looped through one of the rings. The collar can be tightened and loosened with pressure from the lead. Attaching the lead to the floating ring or the dead ring will prevent the collar from tightening.

Choke Chains

The metal training slip collars known as choke chains are still in use as the primary training tools for the dog. They are used to give dogs a jerk, if they do not obey a command but are not advisable as they may cause neck, back and tracheal injuries to dogs and may also cause them trauma. Only qualified, experienced instructors may use them with care. Width and weight of the links decide the type of chokers to be chosen for the dog. Heavy chains need collars with rough sliding. They are the training collars and must never be used on puppies. Tags should not be attached to chokers. Long-haired dogs need wide-link chokers.

Prong or Pinch Collars

These training collars are much safer than the chokers and do not cause neck, back or tracheal injuries. However, since they are may get worn and stretched and thus spring open, they can only be used with a back-up collar hooked to the leash. Not intended for puppies, they should only be used carefully.

Head Halters

Head halters are much like halters used for horses and are meant for dogs that pull. They sit right below the dog's eyes and thus are uncomfortable to most dogs. They should not be confused for muzzles as they allow the dog to drink, eat, bark or bite. It is to be used when the dog is walking at your side and not trying to escape from you.

Harnesses

Harnesses are used for sled and carting dogs to help them pull and is the most effective means to distribute weight evenly. It enables the dog to pull many times its own body weight

Electronic Collars

'Remote' collars or 'shock' collars deliver an electrical stimulus to the dog in training as a 'correction method'. The intensity of the stimulus starts from low level to high, depending on the disobedience of the dog. These training-only collars should only be used by professionals or may have destructive effect on dog's self confidence, desire to work and general good will.

Collars should fit well and especially the non-slip collars should be loose enough to leave two-finger width space between the collar and the neck of the dog. Improperly fitted collars and their incorrect usage may even prove fatal to dogs.

Traveling With Dog

Most dogs like to travel and go for adventure. Natural hunting instincts make them want to see new places and meet new people but it may pose a problem to take the dog with you for many reasons. Many people are afraid of dogs and dog messes are especially troublesome while traveling. Many hotels and public transport services do not cater to pets such as dogs and cats. A full-time pet sitter may be needed to see after your dog while you are on a trip or may get it enrolled in a professionally managed kennel. Make sure that the kennel, where your dog has to live, is clean and comfortable. The dogs there should look happy and cared for. Some kennels also allow you to give dog's own bed, toys and food for his use during your absence. Good kennels accept dogs only if they are vaccinated and immunized properly.

However, if you are insistent on taking the dog with you, here are the few tips for you:

• Get a health certificate from your vet for your dog.
  
• Sturdy dog crates or carriers are must. Some airlines sell dog carriers that are very sturdy but fairly expensive too.
  
• While some airlines will allow your dog to remain with you in the passenger compartment others prefer to keep them in the luggage compartment.
  
• Dogs need air-conditioned and well-ventilated cars to keep him cool.
  
• Don't let your stick his head out the window while the car is moving.
  
• Do not leave the dog in a parked car unattended or in the sun to protect him from fatal heat stroke or from being stole or kidnapped.
  
• Symptoms like rapid panting, fast pulse, excessive slobbering, red eyes and gums, feverish temperature or vomiting, means that your dog needs attention immediately. Place cool towels on your dog and take him to the nearest veterinarian immediately.
  
• Every country has its own specific rules regarding traveling with pets. Follow them carefully to avoid any hassles later.
  
• A valid rabies vaccination certificate and an official health certificate in the other country's native language, notarized at the local consulate, is always helpful.
  
• To prepare for a road trip, get a pet identification tag for your dog first, complete with dog's name, owner's name and contact number.
  
• A first aid kit for your dog comes in handy to remove any ticks that he may contact on the way.
  
• Getting a dog seat belt harness for riding the car is a good idea.
  
• Take your do's beloved food and treats with you, enough to last for the duration of the trip.
  
• Pack water, dog dishes, leash, favorite dog toys, brush, towels, plastic bags for cleaning up after your dog, dog wear and dog carriers or houses and all the things that will keep your dog happy during the journey.
  
• Make sure to stop at least every 2-3 hours to allow your dog to relieve himself and offer him water

POTTY TRAINING BASICS

It is an undeniable fact that puppies need to eliminate. The frustrating part is the communication barrier as well as the lack of understanding about where and when it is appropriate to eliminate. Puppies come to us with the simple motto: "If I have to, then I'll do it." This pertains to eating, sleeping (ever see a pup fall over asleep in mid-play?), activity, exploration AND elimination! Puppies do not understand anything more than that. It is up to us to establish a bridge of understanding if they are to live with us harmoniously. We are the ones with all the requirements, not them! They'd be just as happy to take care of their needs the way they already know.
The most successful potty training methods consist of four key elements:
1. Confinement
2. Training
3. Timing
4. Praise

This article will discuss them all and also answer common housebreaking questions and address some special cases.

Confinement

Puppies (or dogs who don't yet understand where it is appropriate to eliminate) need to be confined in order to facilitate the easiest potty training. The BEST and most effective place to confine is in a crate or cage (more about crates in an upcoming article). At this point (new introduction to potty training) don't leave anything on the bottom of the crate (blanket, newspaper, etc.). Puppy will make a project out of destroying it. Most dogs do NOT want to eliminate where they live, therefore the crate needs to be just large enough for puppy to turn around and lay down. Anything larger will encourage a puppy to eliminate at one end and sleep in the other. For those puppies who will grow quite a bit larger, use a crate that is sized for an adult and partition it to a smaller size using a homemade insert or a crate insert made by the crate company to fit your crate.

Training and Praise

When I teach a new dog (or puppy) where to eliminate, I ALWAYS use a leash. Leashes keep your dog close to you, where you can supervise and control everything that happens. Puppies, especially, are easily distracted. A blowing leaf, new flower, stick, another animal - all can take a puppy's mind off the matter at hand. If you are near the puppy (or dog) with the leash in hand, a gentle tug will redirect away from the curiosity. Leashes are also good to help teach an AREA to eliminate (behind the garage, etc.). With a leash, you just take the dog there every time.

I also teach words for elimination. This way, when the puppy understands what the words mean, he will understand WHAT I want as well as WHEN I want it to happen. My words are "go potty" for urination and "go poop" for defecation. Your choice can be ANY word or phrase you want to use consistently (such as, "hurry up", "do your business", "get busy", "let's go", "tinkles", etc.). Remember when you choose your word or phrase that you will be repeating it A LOT!

As I take my dog outside on a leash, I start to teach him the word "OUTSIDE". "Let's go OUTSIDE!". "Do you have to go "OUTSIDE"? "OUTSIDE! OUTSIDE!" In time, the dog will learn that the word OUTSIDE is associated with elimination. Eventually you will be able to ask the dog "do you have to go OUTSIDE?" and get a response like barking, running to the door or tail wagging.

Using the Leash & Words to Teach

A slip-type leash is quick and easy to slip on the puppy to take him outside. If the puppy isn't used to the leash yet, slip the leash on and carry the puppy from his crate to outside, saying the entire time "Do you want to go outside? Let's go outside! Outside! Outside! Yay! Outside!". Your emphasis should be on the word "OUTSIDE". Once outside, set puppy down and change your mantra to your word/phrase "Go Potty! Go Potty! Let's Go Potty!". Let puppy sniff and move around a little, but keep him in a general area. Each time he gets distracted (leaf, squirrel, etc.) give the leash a tug and repeat "Go Potty!". The command is generally not said in a firm or angry way and not in a soft or pleading way either - it is usually said in an encouraging tone. When elimination occurs, use a happy tone and repeat "GOOD Go Potty! Yay! Go Potty!". I prefer to use WORDS ONLY to reinforce elimination, because petting or treats can interrupt the act. Verbal praise needs to happen DURING the act, not after! Usually dogs will urinate first, then defecate. You need to become familiar with your dog's habits so you can wait for defecation and use a command for it (i.e.; "more potty", "go poop", etc.).

Fish Care

Remember the goldfish from grade school? You won them at a fair, brought them home to a bowl full of water, loved them with all your heart-and they died. Although fish aren’t really hard to care for, if you don’t know a few basic facts you can doom the critters before they ever really have a chance. Keeping your scaly pet alive and swimming isn’t a fishy matter, so read on for the watery basics.

Relocating

It’s a good idea to set up your tank and let it sit for a week before you anticipate putting Wanda into her new home. This gives the water a chance to dechlorinate and gives the "good" bacteria (we’ll talk about this later) a chance to grow. The absolute minimum for tank size is ten gallons; with anything smaller, you will have problems maintaining stable water chemistry and controlling temperature fluctuations.

When Wanda arrives at her new home, she’ll be a little apprehensive about the impending switch to new waters. You can ease her fishy qualms by making the transition a gradual one. Float Wanda’s bag in the tank for a while to let the temperatures equalize. Then slowly begin adding small amounts of tank water to Wanda’s bag; continue for about an hour before you transfer Wanda to her new home. Avoid mixing the old bag water with the new tank water-you can’t be sure what kinds of parasites you have brought home in the bag.

If you’re planning on having several fish in the tank, don’t overcrowd them when starting out. You can add fish to the tank at a rate of one to two fish every one to two weeks. Try not to have more than one inch of fish per gallon of water, and be sure to research the fish you’re placing together so they don’t eat each other at the first opportunity. Fish that are grouped by their preference for the same water temperature, water type (hard vs. soft), and acidity (or lack thereof) will thank you in the end by living the longest.

Cleaning conditions

Fish get used to the condition of the water they are living in. If you change all the water at once, the shock of an "extra clean" environment may be too much, and you might find your scaly pal doing the dead man’s float. Cleaning overzealously will remove most of the "good" bacteria that Wanda needs to live. Good bacteria breaks down waste and toxins such as ammonia into relatively harmless nitrates. It needs time to grow so it can effectively clean the toxins in the tank.

When it’s time for your weekly water change, remove only one-third of the water to ensure you’re not drastically altering the water chemistry. Never use soap of any kind when you clean Wanda’s home. Although detergents are great for human habitats, Wanda will show her displeasure by floating belly up. After removing the water, replace it with dechlorinated water the same temperature as the water in the tank. About once a week you can "vacuum" the gravel (gravel vacuums are available at the pet store) to remove food and other debris that settles at the bottom.

Gadgets for the tank

To heat or not to heat? Whether you will want to invest in a heater depends on where you live and what types of fish you have. Generally, goldfish and koi do not need a heater. But you will need a heater for any fish requiring water that is warmer than the natural room temperature. Heaters often fail, so invest in a heater of good quality and monitor the tank daily to avoid cooked or frozen fish.

An air pump is generally deemed a good thing: It helps avoid thermal layering, prevents film from forming on the top of the water (which inhibits the carbon dioxide/oxygen exchange), and it helps the good bacteria to grow. It is also a good idea to include foliage, rocks, or another type of cover. Although this really depends on the fish, most fish will strongly appreciate the chance to get out of sight.

You will need a filter for your tank as well, and a good one usually comprises the three types (biological, mechanical, chemical) available. At the very least, a biological filter is necessary as it helps break down the nitrites and ammonia into the more benign nitrates. All filters need to be cleaned regularly.

Lighting may also be necessary-most fish don’t like bright lights, and the light in the room during the day is usually enough to keep fish active. If you do decide you want to light up Wanda’s world, don’t use an incandescent bulb. They’re too hot. Fluorescent bulbs generally fit inside a tank’s hood, which also comes in handy in keeping Wanda from jumping out.

Feed me!

Remember the Dr. Seuss book about the fish who was overfed? Although you probably won’t wake up with a gigantic fish on your staircase, overfeeding can lead to health problems. Feed your fish only as much as they can eat in about three minutes, and then feed them that amount one to two times per day. Although they look like they are still hungry, much of the food will fall to the bottom of the tank. When this food is left to decompose it leads to problems with water cleanliness.

Variety is the spice of life, and your fish wants a piece of the action. Think of fish flakes as you would rice: okay as a staple, but awfully boring day in and day out. Just as you would add veggies or meat to your rice dish, add live worms as well as frozen and freeze-dried foods to your fish’s diet. But be careful! Fish can get fat, and if you feed Wanda an excess of protein-rich foods such as bloodworms, you’ll have a happy but fat fish on your hands. Beware of flake food that is old or has been left open and become damp-it will have less nutritional value.

Fish stress

Although they don’t ever have to deal with rush-hour traffic, fish do suffer from stress. Increased stress inhibits your fish’s ability to heal and to ward off parasites and disease. And as with humans, the less stress on a fish, the happier they are with life. The causes of fish stress are varied (see Fish Stressors, below) but the main stressors involve the condition of the water. Signs that Wanda is suffering are a lack of appetite, gasping for oxygen, staying hidden continuously, or wounds that don’t heal.

But in order to see the signs that your fish may be suffering, you will need to spend a little time each day observing Wanda’s behavior. Get to know the behaviors of the different fish you have so you will be able to tell when something is amiss. While you are monitoring your fish, check the tank, its filter, air pump, and any other gadgets you have installed to ensure they are working properly. Besides that, watching your fish is relaxing and just may lower your blood pressure. All the more reason to find yourself a fish, and call her Wanda

How to take care of a dog

It is best if you do a bit of research about how to take care of a dog before deciding to accept a dog as a member of your household. Caring for a dog involves a lot of responsibility, since you will be the sole provider for your dog’s social, dietary and health-related needs. You will also need to be prepared to train your dog, since this is also a very important part of understanding how to take care of a dog. Here is a general guide that will familiarize you with how to take care of a dog, as well as provide tips to help you keep your dog healthy.

Puppy Care

Being aware of how to take care of a puppy requires a bit of a different approach than knowing how to take care of a dog. Puppies require special attention, since they are still in their “learning” stage. Encourage your puppy to interact with the world around them, and be open to new situations or environments. This is also known as “socialization”, and involves exposing your puppy to as many new things as possible. Socialization is a very important part of how to train a puppy, since it sets the foundation for future dog training. Most well-socialized puppies will be much easier to care for, since they tend to exhibit better behavior. It’s also important that you feed your puppy a special puppy-food diet for at least their first year. Growing puppies have different nutritional needs than adult dogs, and need to be fed accordingly. Just like knowing how to take care of a dog, knowing how to take care of a puppy requires that you do some research beforehand

Feedin

Knowing how to take care of a dog involves proper attention to your dog’s diet. Though it may be tempting to purchase a low-quality dog food formula that is inexpensive, this can negatively affect your dog’s health. Understanding how to take care of a dog means that you are accepting the responsibilities associated with proper dog care. It’s recommended that you feed your dog a high-quality, nutrient-rich dog food formula that is balanced enough to ensure proper digestion. Checking dog food reviews is an excellent way of picking a high quality dog food.

In general, the first five listed ingredients in a dog food formula will make up the “bulk” of the food. Be sure that at least two of the first five ingredients are derived from high-quality protein sources. It’s also best to avoid dog food that contains artificial preservatives, colors or chemical flavoringg

Trainig

Part of knowing how to take care of a dog involves knowing how to train a dog. Dogs that are properly trained are much easier to manage, and can adapt more easily to new training programs. Proper dog training should ideally be started as soon as you bring a dog into your home. Understanding how to take care of a dog means that you will have to be sensitive to how quickly your dog can learn new commands. Different breeds of dogs have different levels of intelligence, and will learn at different speeds. The best way to be aware of how to take care of a dog in relation to training involves a lot of patience. Potty training in particular can be difficult, as some dogs need a bit of time to adapt to going to the bathroom outdoors.

Exercis

Knowing how to take care of a dog also involves an adequate level of exercise. Each year, thousands of dogs experience obesity-related health problems. If you truly care about how to take care of a dog, it’s important that you incorporate exercise into your dog’s daily routine. Exercise can be a brisk 30 minute walk, or an extended session of playtime.

Grooming

Another essential part of knowing how to take care of a dog involves attention to your dog’s grooming. Most dogs will need to be groomed at least twice per week, though some long-haired dogs may require more frequent grooming. Be sure to check your dog’s eyes, ears teeth and nails during the grooming process. In some cases, early identification of a health problem can save your dog from a serious medical condition. Decent grooming equipment can be found at any discount pet supplies store

Dog Clothes

Furry dogs are as stylish as they come but humans have infectious fantasy world of their own and even dogs take on some of the spirit of their owners and like to wear clean beautiful outfits sometimes. The dog clothes must be easily washable and should not shrink easily. Fabric is very important and if you can sew a little, it can save you much money and come up with better designs and patterns to suit your tastes and your dog's comfort. Avoid using choking hazards to decorate dog clothes such as attractive buttons, sequins or glittering objects that may motivate the togs to chew upon the clothes. Velcro snaps are much better to be used in dog clothes, as they are self-sticking and are quite adjustable to allow for the perfect fit. The clothes should also have a slit or a buckle at the back to allow the leash to be attached to it. The distance between the cuts for the paws should be comfortable for your dog.

Clothes for active dogs and outdoor wear for dogs should be safe and warm. They should be sturdy enough to keep of cuts, scratches and bad weather from affecting your dog while on adventure. Dog garments can be of many types such as dog coats, dog vests and dog booties. They should be able to keep your pooch dry, warm and save it from rain, wind and storm. Latest style of dog clothes may also include reflective materials that make it easy to search the dog and stitching that is not visible on top. Clothes for active dogs are designed especially to keep them from getting scratches and cuts in the woods by the sharp bushes and splintering brambles. Even the long furry dogs may need coats to protect them from chilly winds in cold weather.

The clothes for dogs should have a good fitting. Their coats, vests, boots and hats should not be very tight but should remain securely in place while the dog is on hunt or a hike with you. Rough bushes and elements of weather can be as much a pain in neck as they are to you, so the clothes for outdoors must be sturdy enough to protect them. The type of coat also determines the types of clothes chosen for a dog. Dogs with short hair may suffer more from rain and cold while thick fur may absorb lots of water. Fleece dog clothing is suitable for cold windy days but are not good enough for rain and thorns. For maximum protection, you may choose a dog coat with a warm fleece lining and a durable nylon shell.

A raincoat for a dog can protect him from the rain and cold too. Choose a raincoat with a hat with flaps to cover the ears. A coat that extends to the underside of the dog must have a hole at the rear end to allow the dog to urinate. Thorns and bugs away from the long fur of your canine pal is quite a bonus too. The clothes should allow a full range of motion and should not restrict its motions, especially those of legs. Garments must have clean lines and invisible close stitching that won't get caught easily or may not prompt dog to chew upon. Clothes for particular breeds of dogs are also available at bigger pet stores. They are specially designed to suit their needs and comforts.

Methods of house training

Starting Inside: There are several ways to housebreak a puppy. With the first, you can put down papers or pretreated pads, encouraging them to use these areas for going to the bathroom. The pads are scented with a chemical that attracts the puppy to use them. Whenever you see them starting into their "pre-potty pattern," such as walking around and sniffing the floor, you gently pick them up without talking and carry them over to the papers/pad and then praise them when they go to the bathroom (Rule 2).

When all goes well and they are using the papers consistently, the papers are either moved closer to the door and/or another set is placed outside. The transition is made from concentrating the toilet habits to one spot inside the home to one spot outside the home. Finally, the papers inside are eliminated. The only problem with this method is that for a period of time it encourages the animal to eliminate inside the home. In our experience, house training may take longer when this method is used.

Crate Training: The second popular method of house training involves the use of a crate or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that the animal is placed in a cage that is just large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like to soil their beds because they would be forced to lay in the mess. It works, and while in these confines, most pups will control their bladder and bowels for a longer time than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8 or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or 8 hours, however, we would never recommend leaving them unattended in a crate for that long in most circumstances.

During housebreaking, whenever the puppy is inside the home but cannot be watched, he is placed in the crate. This might be while you are cooking, reading to the children, or even away from the home. The last thing you do before you put the puppy in the crate is take him outside to his favorite spot. The first thing you do when you take the animal out of the crate is another trip outside. No food or water goes in the crate, just a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy his time. Overnight is definitely crate time. As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him out for longer and longer periods of time.

Most people do not recognize an important advantage of crate training. It does more than just stop the animal from messing in the house. It also teaches the puppy something very important. The puppy learns that when the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he can hold it. Just because the pup feels like he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns that he does not have to. This is thought to be the main reason why puppies that have gone through crate training have fewer mistakes later on.

Make sure you buy the right size cage. You want one that has the floor space that provides just enough for the puppy to lie down. But cages are useful throughout a dog's life and it would be nice if you did not have to keep buying more as he grows. That is not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that will be big enough for him as an adult, but choose a model that comes with or has a divider panel as an accessory. With these, you can adjust the position of the panel so that the space inside the cage available to the pet can grow as he does.

Using too large of a crate can often cause long term problems. The puppy will go to one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate. After a while, he will then run through it tracking it all over the cage. If this is allowed to continue, the instincts about not soiling his bed or lying in the mess will be forgotten and the puppy will soon be doing it every day when placed in the crate. Now a house training method has turned into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his way of life.

Constant Supervision: The last method involves no papers, pads, or crates. Rather, you chose to spend all the time necessary with the puppy. This works very well for people who live and work in their homes, retired persons, or in situations where the owners are always with the animal. Whenever they see the puppy doing his "pre-potty pattern" they hustle him outside. It is important that the dog is watched at all times and that no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method has less room for error, as there is nothing like a cage to restrict the animal's urges, nor is there a place for him to relieve himself such as on the papers or pad. When he is taken outside, watch the puppy closely and as soon as all goes as planned, he should be praised and then brought back inside immediately. You want the dog to understand that the purpose for going outside was to go to the bathroom. Do not start playing, make it a trip for a reason. Verbal communications help this method and we will discuss them soon. For those with the time, this is a good method. We still recommend having a crate available as a backup when the owners have to be away from the animal.

Verbal cues
Specific verbal communications will also help the two of you understand what is desired. It is an excellent idea to always use a word when it is time to head to the bathroom. We like "Outside?" Remember that whenever you use a verbal command or signal, it is important that everybody in the family always uses the same word in the same way. Think of the word "Outside" in this situation not only as a question you are asking the pup, but also as an indication that you want to go there. Some dogs may get into the habit of going to the door when they want to go outside. This is great when it happens but it is not as common as some believe. We have found that it is better to use verbal commands to initiate this sort of activity rather than waiting for the puppy to learn this behavior on his own. It seems like your consistent use of a word or phrase like "Outside" will cause the puppy to come to you rather than the door when he needs to go outside. The pup quickly sees you as part of the overall activity of getting to where he needs to go. We believe this is much better.

Once outside, we try to encourage the pup to get on with the act in question. We use the phrase "Do your numbers." This is probably a holdover from our own parenthood and hearing children use the "Number 1" or "Number 2" phrases. Others use 'Do It,' 'Potty,' or 'Hurry Up.' As soon as they eliminate, it is very important to praise them with a "Good Dog" and then come back inside immediately. Again, make this trip that started outside with a specific word "Outside" be for a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to play with a ball or go for a walk we will not use this word even if we know they will eliminate while we are outside.

How to Stop Barking

It's no wonder people have barking problems with their dogs. Most dogs have no clue as to whether barking is something good or something bad. Sometimes when the dog barks, he is ignored (owner in a jolly mood). Other times, the dog is encouraged (owner sees suspicious stranger outside the house). And yet other times, the dog is yelled at (owner has a headache). Humans are consistently inconsistent. In order to help your dog know your rules, teach him what they are. Here is a good rule to start with: Barking is OK until the dog is told to "Stop Barking." Think of "Stop Barking" as an obedience command rather that simply an unpredictable reprimand. Each time your dog barks, after two or three woofs, praise her for sounding the alarm. Then tell her, "Stop Barking." Simultaneously, waggle an especially tasty food treat in front of her nose.

Most dogs instantly stop barking because they can't sniff and lick the treat while barking. During this quiet time praise her continuously - - "Good girl, stop barking, what a good quiet dog you are, good dog . . ." After 3 seconds of no barking, let her have the treat. The next time she barks, require her to stop barking for 5 seconds before she gets the treat. Each time she is told to stop barking and succeeds, she will be rewarded.

If she barks even one little wooflet after you've given the command, scold her immediately. Timing is everything. As training proceeds, the required period of silence is increased gradually; at first "Stop Barking" means: No barking for the next 3 seconds, then 5 seconds, then 10 seconds and so on. Within a single training session, you can teach your dog to stop barking for up to 1 or 2 minutes. This is major progress, because whatever set off her barking in the first place is history, and she is likely to be quiet until the next disturbance.

Blood in Dog Stool

Passing trace amounts of blood in the stool is considered quite normal for dogs. But when you see a heavy discharge of red or fresh clots of blood in your dog's stool, it can be a serious cause of concern. Clinically, the condition is known as 'Hematochezia'. In such cases, the animal discharges bloody stool and sometimes, has to make a great effort while defecating. Generally, bloody stool in dogs is an important sign of gastrointestinal problems. But blood in the feces may sometimes be indicative of serious disorders in the body. Below we have detailed the causes and helpful remedies for curing bloody stool in dogs.

Causes
Apart from gastrointestinal disorders, there can be numerous reasons for blood in dog's feces. These are some of the major causes of the disorder

• Bacterial infections like 'Clostridium' and 'Salmonella'
  
• Certain allergies from food additives, emulsifiers or fats
  
• Contraction of the anus or colon, due to cancer, trauma or inflammation
  
• Different intestinal parasites like whipworm and ringworm
  
• Disruption of colon or rectum, due to fractures in the pelvis area
  
• Inflammation in the anal sacs or 'Anal Sacculitis'
  
• Inflammation of the colon (Colitis) or the rectum
  
• Overeating or ingestion of sharp things (bone, plastic, needles)
  
• Presence of benign and malignant tumors in the abdomen
  
• Presence of protozoal agents like 'Coccidiosis'
  
• Sudden change in the dietary plan or consuming food meant for people
  
• Viral infections such as 'Parovirus' and 'Coronavirus'
  
• Other bleeding disorders in the body

Home Remedies
Treatments may vary according to the causes of Hematochezia. Listed below are essential home remedies that you can adopt to stabilize and cure the problem.

• Add 2-3 cloves of garlic to the dog's dinner every day.
  
• Avoid giving commercial or packaged food to the animal.
  
• De-worming is necessary in the case of parasitic problems.
  
• Give him 4-5 small servings, instead of two large servings.
  
• Include white rice, cottage cheese and boiled potatoes in the diet.
  
• Provide a bland and hypoallergenic diet with high fiber content.

Specific Cures
Here are some of the treatments that can be undertaken with proper medical supervision or guidance.

• Certain drugs can be administered to control the rate of movement of food through the intestines
  
• Cleansing enemas or local surgeries are required to extract foreign bodies like bones and needles.
  
• Corticosteroids can be taken to cure immune-related Colitis.
  
• In severe cases of vomiting and diarrhea, intravenous fluid and electrolyte treatment becomes necessary.
  
• Masses of colon or rectum can be removed with the help of surgery.
  
• Suitable antibiotics with anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties can be provided orally or injected into the body.
  
• Sometimes shock treatments are undertaken when there is severe breakdown of the animal or it gets very weak.

Though these home remedies may help you to control the disease, yet proper veterinarian counseling sometimes becomes a necessity. Do not wait if the problem continues after 24 hr. Take a fresh sample of stool to the veterinarian for accurate diagnosis and adequate treatment.

Dog Allergies

Dogs may suffer from various kinds of allergies. The food allergies are difficult to determine, as dogs are usually allergic to only one ingredient and not to the whole diet. So, isolating that particular ingredient becomes a long puzzle. Traditionally, it is said that a diet that a dog never eaten before, should be given to him as they will not cause the allergic reaction. People used to give lamb and rice to dog at first but since they are now part of most of the other dog foods, one can try rich-protein diet such as ostrich meat, alligator meat, duck, venison and rabbit along with rich-carbohydrate diet such as potato, peas and rice. Food ingredients such as beef, chicken, milk and wheat can be added back into the diet one at a time to see the reaction of the dog. If food allergies reoccur then, the ingredient added last is taken to be the culprit.

To avoid these allergies, try the following:

• Hyposensitization - Injecting minute amounts of allergen to the dog so that a tolerance to the substance develops. It should be tried on young dogs only, as they respond better to it.
  
• Rinse the ears of your pooch with white vinegar mixed 1:1 with water, once or twice a week, to reduce infections.
  
• In case of inflammation in ear, use Synotic (Rx) or another corticosteroidotic preparation to control secondary infections. Oral corticosteroids have more systemic side effects.
  
• Antihistamines help to reduce ear infections too.

The best allergy test is intradermal skin testing, which can be done by a veterinary dermatologist or an experienced general practitioner too. It has an accuracy rate of about 70 to 80%. Another testing method that can be used for inhalant allergies is blood testing, which an accuracy rate of about 60 to 70%.

How To Care For Dogs

Dogs and humans have been best friends for long. While dogs give unconditional love, loyalty and friendship to their owners, the owners are, in turn, responsible for their proper care, food and water, shelter, safety, regular veterinary care and exercise. In fact, if you do not undertake proper care of your dog, it is not only likely to suffer from physical problems, but behavioral problems as well. In this context, there are some dog-care basics that you need to follow. In order to help you out in the task, we have listed a number of dog caring tips, in the lines below.

How To Care For Dogs

• Collar your dog and attach an ID to it, with the dog's name, your name, address, and telephone number written on it. The ID will prove to be a great help if, and when, your dog ends up getting lost. Through the information provided on the ID, someone will able to bring your pet safely back to your home.
  
• Bathing your dog at regular intervals is necessary. However, giving it a bath on an exceedingly frequent basis can dry out its skin and coat and result in skin infections. The best bet would be to bathe your dog once in a month. In case it gets too dirty in-between, rub it with a damp towel or wash just the paws.
  
  
  
• While bathing the dog frequently is not advisable, you should definitely groom it on a daily basis. Move a brush or comb through the hair of your dog, ensuring that its coat remains smooth and free of tangles. Grooming of a dog can be started when it is 3-4 months old and continues throughout its life.
  
  
  
• It is necessary to undertake a proper physical examination of your dog on a monthly basis. Check the pad of its feet for any injuries and also undertake an oral examination of its mouth. At the same time, make sure to keep its ears as well as teeth clean. You need to take your dog for regular veterinarian check-ups as well, say every 2-3 months.
  
  
  
• One of the main points that you need to keep in mind, while taking care of your dog, comprises of its diet. Remember, a nutritionally balanced diet, with constant access to fresh water, is as good for your dog as it is for you. Before deciding on the proper diet for your dog, it is advisable to consult a veterinary doctor.
  
  
  
• If you want your dog to remain fit and healthy, then you need to make sure that it gets a lot of exercise. Keeping its busy physically will also help keep behavioral problems at bay. You can take him for walk twice a day or play with him. In this context, remember that the level of exercise that your dog should get depends upon its breed and age.
  
  
  
• While some people prefer to keep their dog free throughout the day, others prefer to keep it tied for majority of the time. It is advisable not to keep your dog constantly tied up, as this will lead to boredom and result in bad temper of the dog as well. As much as possible, keep your dog free of the leash.
  
  
  
• If you do not want to breed your dog, get it neutered, after consulting a veterinary doctor. It will help the dog live longer, be healthier and have fewer behavior problems. You should also get your dogs vaccinated against rabies and other diseases. It is necessary to ensure the health of your dog as well as those who come in contact with it.
  
  
  
• You need to provide proper shelter for your dog, mainly in the form of a dog house (and fence yard, in case of large and active dogs). However, most of the dogs crave companionship and do not like to be alone for long periods. So, try to spend as much time with your dog as possible and make it go into the dog house at night only.